Top rope solo belay device. It is easy to use after the initial learning phase.

Top rope solo belay device 2 mm – dynamic rope EN 892 TRS (Top Rope Solo) and EN 567 6 ≤ Ø ≤ 11 mm ≥ 12 kN – dynamic rope EN 892 – accessory cord EN 564 or semi-static rope EN 1891, with energy absorber EN 355 go to TRS dedicated page go to video Belaying the Lead The rope is fixed at the lower anchor and the belay device is oriented as if you were rappelling upward with sufficient free rope to reach the next anchor. 4. . Most notable of these newer devices are tube-style Apr 23, 2023 · The shunt and ascender were never designed for top rope solo or lead rope solo, one of the best bit of kit I've seen on the market so far that works really well for top rope solo is the Taz Love 2 and 3 as they are rated for progress capture, ascent and descent. If a climber falls while climbing on top rope, their weight transfers from the rock to the rope. The main advantages are the ease of feed and the ability to catch head first falls. The bottom line is: use a backup! (not the Kong Back-Up). weighmyrack. com LEAD ROPE SOLOING Introduction to Lead Rope Soloing Risk Assessment and Mindset Solo Belay Devices Techniques Anchors How To Put It Together Gear List Rope soloing is a technique where you belay yourself instead of being belayed by your partner. Avant founder Brent Barghahn created these innovations to reach parity with his live belay ascents, sending 5. Now, they are available for purchase! Jul 14, 2022 · The following is part one of another chunk on my On the Line book, covering the tricky topic of top rope soloing (TRS). As the belayer, you provide a brake on the rope to prevent the climber from falling to the ground. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some Aug 21, 2020 · Rope solo climbing - this is how it works: Equipment list, information on assembly and tips for self-belaying when top rope climbing. The belay device, which is a mechanism that helps the belayer ‘catch’ the climber by creating more friction on the rope or locking it in place with a braking device. The m-traxion is a hauling device, am I out of control using it for TR soloing??? Apr 28, 2025 · Belaying a climber on toprope—where the rope runs from the belay device up through an anchor at the top of the climb and back down to the climber’s harness—is as straightforward as it gets. The following parts do not cover specific devices, but rather the qualities of different types of devices, including eccentric, rocker, lever, wedge, as well as Assisted Breaking Devices (ABD), Belay Assist, and non-mechanical. These skills are outside the scope of this article. Gerke Hoekstra is very experienced in lead rope solo climbing and tope rope solo climbing. You can use this technique to lead or top rope belay. Top Rope Solo Setup for Climbing: I've tried many different Top Rope Solo configurations, but this is by far the best for me right now. Others climb with two different devices clipped into two separate ropes. Advanced first aid in remote areas SIRIUS in 2003 and 2018. Gear/bolts are clipped into the "protection strand" of the rope while ascending, allowing a relatively normal lead climbing experience. An internal rotating wheel reduces friction between the rope and the rope-pinching mechanism, making it easy to feed out slack to a leader without activating the assisted braking function. Only the basic technique is described here. Simard Other than the typical anchor set-up and personal climbing gear the following demonstration is done with the use of: 1) uAscend from Grandwall equipment (Main belay device) 2) Micro Traxion from Petzl (Back-up belay device) 3) Rappel deviceImportant note: Usi Ever wanted to climb solo but still stay safe? In this video, I take you through my full Top Rope Solo climbing setup, gear selection and self-belay system. Dec 15, 2021 · In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. However, many belay devices are designed with top belaying especially in mind and will do this job much better. Unlike many other soloing devices on the market, the Wren Soloist has a minimal of rope drag, so it's easy to make hard moves without any resistance while pulling the rope through the device Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. Also the creator has a facebook page with videos of the device in use. When unweighted, slack is easily paid out in a straight line through As for devices, I use a Gibbs ascender as my top device with a loop of shock cord looped over my head tied through the carabiner attachment eye and a triple lock oval connected to belay loop. I mainly use it for leading and multipitch climbs. Whenever I read threads about top rope solo, everyone agrees on using one device to self-belay, and some kind of backup in case your belay device malfunctions. The following characteristics are essential for any self-belay system: Jan 20, 2014 · Some climbers hang a second rope alongside the first and clip into bights pre-tied in the backup rope in case the primary rope or belay device fails. It is easy to use after the initial learning phase. The rope that connects the climber to the belayer. Since the 90s, climbing belay devices have continually developed, particularly in the assisted braking device category. The anchor, which is a technical climbing term for a secure attachment of the rope to the rock, usually at the top of the route. Soloist safety equipment pdf manual download. Or, climb multipitch routes faster with fix-and-follow tactics. Dec 5, 2024 · The Trango Vergo is a fantastic device for belaying the leader, providing an ergonomic and intuitive way to pay out slack without compromising the brake assist. 2. The errors Clark made were using only one device to safeguard her progress and not tying a backup knot. Oct 10, 2020 · In reply to Explorer-Jason: I've got a shunt. Nov 29, 2005 · I currently use a mini traxion for a top rope solo belay device. A climber who falls will be held by the rope at the point of the fall, and can then either resume their climb or have the belayer lower them down in a controlled manner to the base of the climb. Single rope with both devices one single rope - one on belay loop the other on a sling around both shoulders, double rope with a device on each. Its specialized engineering and full stainless-steel construction make it Jun 15, 2012 · If you want a new way to train or work your latest project without the inconvenience of a partner, try solo toproping. Aug 20, 2020 · The best device IMO for backing up any primary device is the CT Roll’nLock because it’s lock-open feature is positive and never slips into the lock mode…and, it flows up the rope easily and unnoticed and slides down freely when locked out for rapping. Dec 16, 2022 · The Petzl Grigri, invented in 1991, is single-handedly the most well-known assisted braking belay device. There's a lot of good info spread across MP forums, but figured i'd consolidate and put together an Instructable for anyone else interested in maki… The Sulu Go is a new play device from Italy. Solo toproping is not rocket science—the techniques are straightforward, and the only special gear you need is a belay device. Top Rope Soloing One thing you might consider if you want to be extra safe is placing one of your devices on the harness tie-in points instead of the belay loop, passing a carabiner/quicklink through them. Discover Effortless Top Rope Solo Climbing with Our Universal Neck Lanyard Designed for all climber sizes and device types, this lanyard brings simplicity and safety to your fixed line top roping or fix-and-follow multipitch outings. Become a better climber by practicing movement on your own terms, without needing to line up a partner. performed alone without a climbing partner), but however, unlike free solo climbing, which is also performed alone and with no climbing protection whatsoever, the rope-solo climber uses a mechanical self-belay device and rope system, which enables them to use Aug 13, 2024 · The TAZ LOV3 The LOV3 is a belay device that works with ropes between 9. Oct 12, 2021 · A Quick and Dirty Example for Top Rope Soloing by P. Learn how to belay. In the past I have used a jumar and a shunt, but the mini traxion gives me the most confidence, especially on the overhangs. Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl Neox easily feeds slack while lead belaying, and also provides a secure catch, making it our favorite belay device for belaying a leader and single-pitch climbing. 9 ≤ Ø ≤ 10. Solo Belay System. Edelrid Fuse Lead Rope Solo Setup Belay device for Top Rope Solo - First Impression Sulu Go Magnus Midtbø Rope Soloing This Is NOT How You Do It! All about the Petzl Nano Traxion vs Micro Top Rope Solo Gear Is top roping soloing the purist form of climbing? It is like free soloing, but much safer. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. This means that belayers are much Jul 29, 2024 · Petzl's new Neox is a sleek assisted-braking belay device. Grigri with microtrax, grigri alone, grigri with jumar, jumar with microtrax etc etc. Other times, the freedom and self-sufficiency required to go for a big rock climb alone create its own unique experience. i have used a shunt in the past but wondered what people are using these days? Jun 18, 2020 · Thursday, June 18, 2020 Taz Lov2 for Top Rope Soloing - A Review The holy grail of TRS devices would be a device that allows me to freely climb with no slack build-up; be able to quickly lock-up when needed; and be able to rap whenever I desire without having to switch devices. Here are our in-depth reviews. The Redirected Belay All rope grabs presented in this video can fail if they get caught between the climber's legs closed tight. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. The cinch proved to be very reliable, the rope never slipped enough to make the prusik grab the rope. Nov 19, 2024 · What are people's go to top rope solo devices/methods these days. Sep 30, 2022 · See the lead rope solo facebook group for discussions. Learn how to choose a belay device for rock climbing. Well that device is now here - it’s the TAZ Lov2. Versatile belay and braking device with manual-assisted slide locking, ideal for lead and top rope climbing EN 15151-1 type 6 8. Jun 1, 2021 · Now that you know how to rock climb alone and self-belay lemme tell you that’s not the only way to rock climb solo. Its speed activated locking wheel and the resulting beautiful feeding of the device are the main reasons. Sep 15, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. This can be a safety concern if your device locks up mid crux, causing you to fall. It is designed in a different way and meets demands for top rope solo climbers. We prefer to use the Avant Climbing LRS Chest Harness due to its lightweight minimalist design. ” El Mudo is gaining international recognition, not only for being the only commercially available device/system but also for its design, which is fundamentally intended for Rope Solo Climbing—whether in Top Rope Solo (TRS) or Lead Rope Solo (LRS). In fact, various climbing sports are dedicated to “solo climbing. Discover Effortless Top Rope Solo Climbing with Avant Climbing Innovations' Universal Neck Lanyard Designed for all climber sizes and device types, this lanyard brings simplicity and safety to your fixed line top roping or fix-and-follow multipitch outings. Nevertheless, fixed-rope solo climbing is an option that un number of climbers have taken, experimenting with a variety of technical solutions. Backup can be a second rope, knots, a second device, etc. How? We followed on toprope solo. Petzl has not developed a device for this activity, but certain ascenders may be used for it by experts. Apr 15, 2024 · The Revo is a relatively well known self-belay device in rope solo circles that is used as a poor man’s Silent Partner - that is, a bi-directional feed device that operates on the basis of centrifugal force/speed lock to stop rope feed. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. I used it for some weeks on my "training tower" and now recently for Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. However afaik it's made for lead rope solo, so a different use case from yours. I've been using these techniques and I love the freedom it gives m Mar 12, 2025 · The Petzl NEOX solves the critical issue with most assisted braking belay devices — unwanted rope locking when feeding slack. A chest harness is important to hold your belay device in the correct orientation while climbing. How does it stack up to the Grigri? We put it to the test. View and Download ROCK EXOTICA Soloist instruction manual online. Climbers on indoor climbing walls can use mechanical auto belay devices to top rope alone. I go rope soloing on a regular basis, both to session hard moves and to get a few vertical meters to gain endurance. Jun 27, 2012 · Solo Top Rope Self Belay Advice Some progress capture pulleys and ascenders can be rigged to travel along a fixed line providing a self-belay for a solo top rope climbing experience. For top rope solo a trax primary is fine. ), assisted braking devices, and even the old-school munter hitch. Where other units draw the user to compromise the belay by holding down a camming rope pinch, the Vergo pinches the rope by rotating the entire device when weighted. How comfortable are you with the systems, your anchor situation, lead or TR solo, over Feb 10, 2011 · Bungee Prussic loops These small prussic loops made from thin bungee cord are vital for smooth rope soloing (as you will find in the next article), allowing the rope below you to be held, rather than hanging from your waist (and probably locking up your belay device - or worse still, sucking a ton of slack through the system). It depends on a few things IMO. Feb 13, 2025 · ANALYSIS Solo top-roping allows a climber to self-belay when no partner is available, for a team to work on individual sections of a route without the need for a belayer, or for two climbers to move simultaneously, as in this situation. These articles explain how to belay using a top rope system and how to climb safely at an indoor climbing wall. A belay device helps you provide this brake by applying friction to the rope. In 2018, he launched the Top Rope Solo’s first e-course!!! Here is a bit of Yann’s climbing experience in solo (lead and second) An auto belay is a mechanical device that is used in rock climbing to provide an effective and efficient way of lowering a climber to the ground after they have completed their Versatile Climbing Techniques: Suitable for Lead Rope climbing, Top Rope/Moulinette, Top Rope Solo. Types of Device 3. Rope-solo climbing or rope-soloing (or self-belaying) is a form of solo climbing (i. My current setup is a trango cinch in the belay loop and a prusik on top of it as backup. Oct 15, 2021 · An advanced climbing technique, top rope solo climbing requires you to self-belay and removes the participation of a climbing partner, who would normally belay you or otherwise assist you as you climb. Feb 3, 2022 · On the other hand, rope solo refers to climbing alone but with a self-belay rope system to protect against a fall. Some Other Points Rope soloing with the rope in a sack, note the carabiner on the shoulder strap (backup knot not shown – it would be on the rope between the Silent Partner and the backpack). “I was jugging by pulling on the rope, syncing up the Enhance your top rope solo climbing safety and efficiency with our Universal Top Rope Solo Neck Lanyard—professionally designed for seamless compatibility with all devices and tailored for comfort, it eliminates the DIY hassle, ensuring a perfect fit for every climber on fixed line top roping or fix-and-follow multipitch climbing. Aug 25, 2022 · I free climbed one of the world's hardest alpine routes despite carrying the weight of a multi-day pack. If I can tie off the rope at the top anchor I've also used a gri gri for a single rope. Neither device is recommended by Petzl though for this. By far the best soloing device that I have come across. If you don't do this, the device will not auto-feed well. May 26, 2024 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Feb 27, 2021 · I've tried a bunch of different things. But if you're doing normal top rope climbing, your belayer has a belay device, and that's it, no backup. Certifications instructor of traditional climbing lead 2018 with the FQME and climbing guide Rock and Ice with the ÉNEQ in 2003 and 2006 Upgrade with AGMA 2018. More complicated techniques are needed to solo an overnight alpine route or aid-solo a big wall. Petzl’s most recent rendition of the Grigri has an anti-panic feature to add security when belaying in top rope mode. Yes they are pricey but breaking both ankles can cost a bit . Y Sep 17, 2012 · Recently bought the Wren Soloist. e. *) See full list on blog. This includes all tube-style devices (ATC, reverso, etc. Includes the pros and cons of tubular, assisted braking and Figure 8 devices. It is certified across the full range as a “manual locking assist device according to EN 15151-1”. Solo Top Roping is a great way to get a lot of laps in and have a positive training day when you can’t find a partner, or are just looking for some solitude. May 21, 2024 · This comprehensive review compares 13 of today's top options, offering you expert advice on which one is best for different situations. Our team field tested all of these products, climbing big walls in Yosemite and Zion, using them for rescue training on glaciers, and as top-rope solo devices at crags. (This is the method recommended by Petzl, which makes the most popular devices used for this technique. 14 rope solo style. 5 and 11mm in diameter but meets different standards depending on the rope thickness. Amazing. Jul 12, 2023 · Because of the lack of actual rope solo devices many climbers including myself have tryed using a Wild Country Revo as a "replacement" for the well known and trusted Silent Partner.